SEED SAVING 101: Seed saving is a lost art that is making a comeback!
WHY SAVE SEEDS? Saving seeds from the best specimens in the garden improves the seed stock from year to year, and the seeds will develop strong traits that are well suited to the local microclimate. Saving seeds is free, helps lower the cost of garden plantings, and enables the gardener to be a part of the full life cycle of the plants in the garden.
SEED SAVING STARTS AT PLANTING TIME: plan the garden with the intention of saving seeds at the end of the season. Seeds can only be saved from:
· Open-Pollinated Plants: plants that have been pollinated by insects, birds, wind, humans, or other natural mechanisms. Because there are no restrictions on the flow of pollen between species, open-pollinated plants are more genetically diverse, and this can cause a greater amount of variation within plant populations. This allows plants to slowly adapt to local growing conditions and climate from year-to-year. As long as pollen is not shared between different varieties within the same species, then the seed produced will remain true-to-type year after year.
· Heirloom Plants: plant varieties that have a history of being passed down within a family or community, similar to the generational sharing of heirloom jewelry or furniture. An heirloom variety must be open-pollinated, but not all open-pollinated plants are heirlooms. Seed Savers Exchange is an excellent resource that identifies heirlooms by verifying and documenting the generational history of preserving and passing on the seed. Heirloom seeds have the best chance of growing true to the parent plant.
Saving hybrid plant seeds risks producing different characteristics of the parent plants or characteristics of only one parent in the hybrid. Only a long-term breeding project should use saved hybrid seeds.
PLANT LIFE CYCLES:
· Annual: plants that complete their life cycle, produce, seed, and die, in one growing season. Many of the garden fruits and vegetables we eat are annuals, such as lettuce, beans, peas, squashes, cucumbers, melons, basil, cilantro, summer broccoli, potatoes, and annual radishes. In cooler climates, tomatoes and peppers are annuals.
· Biennial: plants that require two seasons to complete their life cycle, including cabbages, onions, leeks, beets, parsnips, celery, parsley, rutabagas, and carrots, are usually insect or wind-pollinated, and require dry processing.
· Perennial: plants that live for a minimum of three years. Some perennials can live for decades, and they usually can produce seed and not die. Common edible perennials include many herbs such as oregano and rosemary; tree fruits like apples and pears; berries, rhubarb, artichoke and asparagus; and tomatoes and peppers in warm climates. The term perennial includes herbaceous plants, trees, bulbs, shrubs, cacti, bamboos, some grasses, and vines.
CROP MATING SYSTEMS: The way that a plant mates falls between strongly inbreeding and strongly outbreeding.
· Strong Inbreeders: plant species with bisexual flowers that remain closed, are self-pollinating, and do not require wind, insects, or animals to transfer pollen from one plant to another. The plant’s offspring receive all the genes of the parent plant, and this ensures that the offspring are just as well adapted as the parent.
· Strong Outbreeders: rely completely on cross-pollination to reproduce. The plant’s offspring are genetically different than both parents and have the ability to withstand new environmental changes.
MAINTAINING CROP GENETICS:
· Stagger plantings of different varieties of the same species so that they flower at different times. This will help spread out the timing of seed collection.
· Decide what traits are desired to pass on to the next generation and prioritize those traits for harvesting seeds. Traits can include earliness of fruiting, abundance of fruit, size of fruit, flavor, and color.
· Select the top ten percent of plants exhibiting the most desirable traits and save only their seed. Cull weak or otherwise undesirable species within the planting before they are allowed to flower. This will only leave the strongest plants and create superior seeds.
ISOLATION METHODS:
· Isolation with Time: to isolate two varieties of the same species by time, plant one variety earlier than the other. The first variety must be planted early enough that it has completed its pollination period and set seed before the second variety begins to flower. Be observant to make sure that they are not flowering at the same time. Some examples of crops that can easily be isolated using timing include corn, sunflowers, and basil.
· Isolating with Physical Barriers: physical barriers include paper or cloth bags, cages of very fine mesh, rows of thickly planted flowers, shrubs or trees, and buildings. Physical barriers such as thick vegetation, hills or buildings can at least partially block foreign pollen-bearing wind and insects. Bags and cages can virtually eliminate any contamination from foreign pollen, but they have two drawbacks. First, they often require involved pollination techniques. For example, seed growers who use cages to isolate carrots must release fly larvae inside the cages to allow for pollination. Second, using bags and cages makes maintaining an adequately sized population more difficult, as these strategies require a larger per-plant investment of time and materials.
· Isolating with Distance: use distance to isolate crops by planting them sufficiently far away from sources of contaminating pollen. The distance required for effective isolation varies from species to species, and a general guideline is that plants that mostly inbreed require less isolation, while plants that mostly outbreed require more isolation. For plants that tend to outbreed, those that are primarily insect-pollinated require less isolation than those that are primarily wind-pollinated. Ideal isolation distances are not absolute and cross-pollination can occur even when observing recommended isolation distances! Isolation requirements can vary with environmental conditions and expert recommendations for the same crop vary widely.
Most plants grown for their flowers are dry seeded, but vegetable crops can be either dry seeded or wet seeded, and the techniques used to collect and save seeds from these differ.
· Dry Seeded Plants: have seeds enclosed in pods or husks. Several vegetable plant families are dry seeded. The Poaceae family includes corn, rice and wheat. The Fabaceae family includes beans, peas, and lentils. The Brassicaceae family includes cabbage, mustard, and kale. Saving vegetable seeds from dry-seeded crops can be relatively easy, while the process for wet-seeded crops takes longer and is a little more complicated.
· Wet Seeded Plants: have seeds embedded in the flesh of their fruits. There are two vegetable plant families with wet-seeded fruits. The Solanaceae family includes tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. The Cucurbitaceae family includes melons, squashes, and cucumbers.
MATURITY DATES: DRY-SEEDED PLANTS:
· Mature seeds and seed pods that are ready for harvest are no longer green and will change color to beige, brown, yellow, or black depending on the plant. When the flowers are fading on a flowering plant, the seed heads turn brown.
· Seeds and seed pods are mature when they reach an adequate level of dryness. Test seed pods for dryness by rolling them between the fingers to see how easily they shatter. Some seeds such as onion or spinach seed can be cut open to check dryness. If the inside is no longer milky and has become starchy, they are mature.
· The ease of detachment of the seed or seed pod can indicate maturity. Some crops such as beet, cilantro, and Swiss chard, can be checked by seeing if the seed comes off the stalk when rubbed vigorously. If bad weather is threatening, pick some dry seeds before they are fully mature and they will continue to mature off the plant.
MATURITY DATES: WET-SEEDED PLANTS: are a little more complicated to determine and varies depending on the plant. It’s beneficial to do some research on how to save seeds from specific species, however, allow wet seeded fruit and vegetables to mature on the plant as long as possible before harvesting. The seeds will continue to increase in size and quality long after the fruit or vegetable becomes edible. Cucumbers and eggplant should not be picked for their seeds until they are overripe and beginning to shrivel up. If the fruit needs to be harvested to protect against disease or damage before the seeds are fully mature, store the fruit whole and let the seeds ripen before extracting them.
SEEDS THAT MATURE IN THE GARDEN: allow the fruit to completely ripen on the vine before harvesting. Seeds from vegetables such as kale, radish, lettuce, cabbage, peas, and beans will germinate and grow better if they are allowed to mature and ripen right on the plant, and then collected and stored in an envelope for next year. Harvest seeds on a dry day in the early afternoon when seeds are retaining the least amount of water.
· Kale and radish seeds: harvest pods when they feel dry, and to open the pods, rub them gently between the palms.
· Lettuce and cabbage seeds: when the plant begins to flower, place a plastic bag over it. When the seeds are ready, they will drop naturally and be contained in the bag, ready for collection and storage.
· Pea and bean seeds: if the pods are green, that means the seeds are still ripening and receiving nutrients from the pods. Be patient and wait until the pods are completely brown before harvesting seeds. Spread seeds out on a clean and dry surface and leave them to dry for a week or so before storing.
SEEDS THAT NEED TO BE FERMENTED:
· Tomato and Cucamelon seeds: need to be fermented and they can’t just be scooped out and dried. Remove the seeds with all the slimy tomato guts and leave them to ferment. Fermenting the seeds is copying the natural process the tomatoes go through to reproduce. The membrane around the seeds prevents germination and can carry disease. By fermenting it, the seeds are sterilized, and the next year’s plants are protected. Fermenting also gets them ready for winter storage so that they are primed for good germination rates when the time comes.
· Cucumber seeds: wait until the cucumber is a bit overripe and its flesh has turned somewhat yellow in color, then cut it in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Drop the seeds into a Mason jar half-filled with water, cover, and let sit for 3-4 days. The best seeds will sink to the bottom of the jar. Collect those seeds and spread them out to dry on a paper towel. Once they are completely dry, store them in the refrigerator.
· Melon seeds: cut a ripe melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Rinse them gently under warm water to remove excess fruit. Put the seeds in a covered Mason jar half-filled with water and let sit for 2-4 days. The best melon seeds will sink to the bottom of the jar. Dry the sunken seeds on a paper towel and store them in a seed envelope until planting time.
SEEDS THAT SHOULD BE SCOOPED OUT AND DRIED:
· Pumpkin, Squash, and Eggplant seeds: when a hard outer shell is developed, these vegetables are ready to be harvested for seed saving. Cut in half, scoop out the seeds, and rinse them under warm water. Pat them dry and spread them out on a clean and dry surface. Wait until the seeds are completely dry before packaging them up for storage. Different varieties of squash and pumpkin can cross-pollinate with each other, so the seeds might produce something that is not quite the same as the plant the seeds were collected from. This can be a really fun surprise!
· Pepper seeds: most peppers will turn a dark red color when they reach full maturity. At this point, harvest them and slice them in half. Remove the seeds and spread them around on a paper towel placed away from direct sunlight for 1-2 weeks, then store in an airtight container.
OTHER SEED SAVING BASICS:
· Seeds inside fruit: can be harvested from dry gourds and peppers by cutting open the fruit and removing the seeds to dry on a paper towel.
· Strawberry seeds: are on the outside of the fruit and are easy to save using the smear and dry method. Rather than scooping the seeds, smash them on a paper towel and leave to dry in a warm spot. Once dry, fold up the paper towel and place it in an envelope until planting time. To plant the seeds, scrape them off the paper towel into the soil.
· Seeds within a flower bud: can be harvested by cutting open the flower to reveal the seeds inside. Sunflower seeds are easy to find because the seeds are visible in the flower. Others can be tiny or tucked inside.
· Poppy seeds and chive seeds: let the seeds dry right on the plant, then collect them carefully by breaking open the pod and shaking them onto a dish towel to separate them from the pod and stems.
· Bean and Lily seeds encased in a pod: allow the pods to dry on the plant, then collect them carefully by breaking open the pod and separating the seed from the pod and stems.
SEED PROCESSING: There are three methods for processing seeds which depend on the type of seed being saved.
Dry Process: for plants that produce seeds in husks or pods such as peas, beans, leeks, rocket, and radishes.
· Step 1: Drying: allow the pods to dry completely. It is best if they dry while outdoors on the plant, but if this is not possible, pull out the entire plant and hang it to dry. The seeds will continue to mature, strengthen, and dry as the plant dies.
· Step 2: Threshing: loosens and releases the seeds from the pods or any other plant material attached to them. There are several ways you can do this that include rubbing the seed pods between gloved hands to break them open or by rubbing the seed pods or husks over a rough surface, using a sack or pillowcase for pods that shatter easily and shaking them so that the pods crack open and release the seeds, compressing between two boards for smaller seeds taking care not to rub too hard and damage the seeds, and using a machine to release the seeds.
· Step 3: Cleaning: clean the seeds and separate them from any bits of pod, husks, leaves or stems. This is accomplished by winnowing which uses an air current, natural or a fan, to separate the seed from non-seed material based on weight. An easy way to do this is to stand on a tarp and pour seed from one container to another in the wind or in front of a fan. Most chaff is lighter than the seeds and will blow away and land outside the container receiving the seeds. Cleaning can also be accomplished by screening which uses trays or screens with holes to separate seeds from non-seed material based on size. One basic screening technique uses two stacked screens. The top screen has holes slightly larger than the seeds, and the bottom screen has smaller holes. Any larger material will remain on the top screen, and all smaller bits will fall through the bottom screen, leaving only seeds between the screens.
Wet Process: for seeds found in the flesh of fruits or vegetables such as melons and squashes.
· Step 1: Extracting: carefully cut open the fruit or vegetable and extract the seeds and any pulp surrounding them.
· Step 2: Cleaning: separates the seeds from the fruit pulp surrounding them, and is accomplished by soaking, rinsing and decanting. A combination of rinsing and decanting is very effective and commonly used. Soaking loosens the pulp clinging to the seed, makes it easier to clean them, and involves placing the seeds and pulp in a container full of water and allowing them to soak for up to 12 hours. Rinsing is the process of putting the seeds in a sieve or strainer and cleaning off the pulp by rubbing the seeds gently under running water. Decanting separates pulp and lightweight less viable seeds from the heavier healthy seeds. Place the seeds and pulp in a container and add water at a ratio of one-part seeds and pulp to four parts water. Stir vigorously to loosen the seeds from the pulp. Wait a few minutes for the heavy seeds to settle on the bottom and pour the top layer of pulp, debris, and lighter seeds off the top. Repeat the process 3-6 times until the water is relatively clean, then pour the seeds into a strainer and rinse under running water.
· Step 3: Drying: spread the seeds thinly on a baking sheet in a well-ventilated place, and air dry the seeds. Stir and turn them frequently to aerate them and prevent mold.
Fermentation Process: for tomatoes and cucumbers.
· Step 1: Extracting: remove the seeds and pulp from the fruit, place them in a container, and mix them with a little water.
· Step 2: Fermenting: allow the seeds to ferment for up to four days. When a layer of white or gray mold has formed on top of the water, the fermentation is complete. During the fermentation process the mold breaks down the gel sacs around the seeds that can inhibit germination. When fermentation is complete, add more water and swish it around. The heavy, healthy seeds should sink to the bottom, and the mold, pulp, and non-viable seeds can be poured off.
· Step 3: Rinsing: rinse the seeds in a sieve under running water and rub gently to remove any remaining pulp.
· Step 4: Drying: put the clean seeds on a plate or screen to air dry thoroughly in a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight.
STORING SEEDS: when the seeds are dry, store them in airtight packaging and label the container with the date, plant variety, and growing location. Canning or mason jars, seed envelopes, or zip top bags make excellent seed storage containers.
Store seeds in a dark, cool place where they will not be exposed to dampness or fluctuating temperatures. Seeds can also be stored in the freezer for up to 2 years. When ready to plant, remove them from the freezer and allow them to warm naturally at room temperature before opening the container.
Seeds can be stored for up to two years, and each additional year that seeds are stored reduces their germination rates.
SEED LIBRARY: is a lending library for gardeners to who borrow seeds from the library at planting time. At the end of the growing season, they save the seeds from the plants grown from the borrowed seeds and return a portion back to the library. Wild Child Herb Shop maintains an extensive seed library and sponsors seed swaps and seed saving programs.
The benefits of a seed library include:
· Builds community with fellow gardeners.
· Supports people who are new to the world of gardening.
· Preserves rare open-pollinated or heirloom seeds.
· Encourages gardeners to save seeds suitable for the local growing area.
· Protects the genetic diversity of food crops.
· Can help local farmers find more success each growing season.
· Educates the public on local agriculture.
· Brings new plants into circulation.
· Promotes biodiversity.
· Ensures food security.
· Provides an alternative to GMO crops.
Here is a graphic to help determine if seeds are viable:
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