CONTAINER GARDENS 101: There are a wide variety of herbs, indoor and outdoor plants, and vegetables that can be grown in containers!
WHAT IS CONTAINER GARDENING? Container gardens are great for beginning gardeners, people who have limited space, or anyone who wants to dress up their porch or patio. They can be planted with a single plant or a combination of plants depending on the look desired.
Popular plants for containers include flowers, herbs, veggies, grasses, and succulents. Many gardeners switch out the plants they grow seasonally to ensure nonstop color throughout the year.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT CONTAINER:
· It's possible to plant directly into any container so long as there are drainage holes. Drilling through wood, plastic or fiberglass is relatively easy, and adding a drain hole to a clay pot can be done by using an electric drill with a masonry bit, working carefully to avoid breaking the pot.
· For large containers, buy the best and most affordable as they will be around for a long time. Choose classic shapes and styles that will fit in with any garden. Brightly colored pots will restrict the planting choices.
· Use the materials and architectural details of the house as a starting point. Match warm brick walls with terra-cotta pots, or a white colonial-style frontage with classic lead or faux-lead finish planters. For a rustic timber house, seek out beaten copper tubs or weathered wooden troughs.
· A tall and narrow pot is less stable than a squatty and low one. Use tall pots for trailing plants, which are not usually top heavy, and let them cascade over. Shallow containers work best at the front of a group to anchor it.
· Avoid planting into a narrow-necked pot whose body is larger than the neck, as it is difficult to get a plant out once its roots have spread. That's why flowerpots are always wider at the top than the bottom.
· Don't worry about having a pot for every plant. Keep most of the container plants in regular black plastic pots. Keep the decorative pots to the front of the display and allow black plastic ones to just recede into the background.
MASON JAR CONTAINER GARDEN: It’s easy to put a Mason Jar Garden together! With this type of garden, a continuous supply of fresh herbs and vegetables can be readily available, and mason jars also look delightful with flowers.
The backdrop for the mason jar garden can be made from just about any material. A pallet, wood, a chalkboard, an old door, a recycled shutter, or other household items work perfectly. The best way to decide if a backdrop will be right for the project is to check how easy it will be to attach the jars. To hang the jars, clamps are the best choice.
MASON JAR GARDEN SUPPLIES: Mason Jars: Roots generally like to grow away from light, so colored jars, especially amber colored ones, are best. If using clear jars, wrap a piece of paper around the jar to keep the root zone in the dark.
High Quality Potting Mix or Water: For a simple mason jar herb garden in the kitchen, root herb cuttings in plain water. Avoid using chlorinated water directly as the bleaching chemical is not exactly friendly to plant tissues. Tap water that has been left to air overnight is fine, and so is stored rainwater. Spring water or well water is the best because it has some amount of dissolved minerals that may be of use to plants.
Clamps for attaching the jars to the backdrop.
Pebbles for Drainage.
Herbs or Plant Cuttings: Soft cuttings are pretty quick to root in water, and don’t require rooting hormones. Snip off 6-inch sections from herbs growing in the garden and put them in the water-filled containers. The best part of growing herbs from cuttings is that herbs from the store can also be used. Just wash them in plain water and cut off the lower portion. Remove lower leaves from cuttings and trim the lower tips close to the nodes from where the roots arise. When they are inserted into the jars, there shouldn’t be any leaves touching the water. They can rot easily and spoil the water, as they do in flower vases. Woody cuttings like rosemary may take longer to root, so be patient. Change the water once a week without disturbing the cuttings. Once the roots start growing, usually between 2-6 weeks, water changes may not be necessary. If willow trees are available, steep some branches in warm water overnight to make a natural rooting hormone mix. Place the cuttings in the infusion to encourage rooting. Alternately, rooting hormone powder can be used.
HOW TO FEED WATER-GROWN PLANTS: Plants growing in plain water will soon exhaust what little mineral nutrients the water may contain. Since they don’t have access to the nutrients naturally occurring in soil, they need supplemental nutrition to do well. Regular fertilizers diluted in water or proprietary formulations designed for hydroponics can be used at regular intervals.
When using fertilizers to feed water grown plants, they leave some residues that may accumulate in the water and on the roots, causing root burn. Change the water at regular intervals and flush the plants and the containers occasionally.
MASON JAR GARDEN GROWING MEDIUMS: SOIL:
The growing medium is the most important thing to consider when building a mason jar garden. Normal garden soil cannot be used to grow plants in jars because it has less drainage. After some time, the soil loses all the drainage and will compact, which is not good for the roots of plants. Normal garden soil also has fewer nutrients in it. Plants in jars only have the soil to get all the nutrients from, and if that soil is not fertile, the plants will die.
Select a good quality soil for the mason jar garden. Potting mix is an excellent choice because it is specially made for plants in jars. This soil has great drainage and contains a great number of nutrients.
CHOOSING THE BEST LOCATION: MASON JAR GARDEN: Every plant needs some sunlight to grow, and the sun requirements can range from 1 to 8 hours daily for optimal growth. Place the mason jar garden near a window that receives plenty of sunlight. LED grow lights can also be used, and they are an amazing tool for indoor gardeners. LED grow lights will provide the required light for the mason jar garden without the worry about seasonal changes and fluctuations in sunlight. Any kind of plant can be grown year-round using LED grow lights.
When choosing a location:
• Use slow growing herbs and plants.
• No direct light or the ball of the roots can cook when the jar heats up.
• Don’t over water, simply dampen.
• Use rocks for drainage.
• Do not hang near heater vent!
HOUSEPLANTS FOR THE MASON JAR GARDEN: Not just herbs, but other houseplants do equally well in the indoor garden.
The following varieties are just perfect for those who regularly kill houseplants by over watering them or forgetting to water altogether:
Airplane Plant: Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
Aluminum Plant (Pilea cadierei)
Dieffenbachia (Dieffenbachia seguine)
Dracaena (Dracaena marginata)
Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema commutatum)
Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)
Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum)
CHOOSING PLANTS FOR THE CONTAINER GARDEN:
· ENVIRONMENT: The most important key to a successful container garden is to make sure that all of the plants require similar sun or shade conditions, and have the same water requirements.
· FLOWERS vs. FOLIAGE: Don’t rely on flowers alone. Long-lasting container combos tend to partner plants chosen for extended bloom time, usually annuals, with plants that add attractive foliage colors, shapes, and textures to the mix, often tender perennials. If one plant goes into a slump, another will pick up the slack. Keep it simple by limiting the selection to three types of plants.
· THRILLER, FILLER, SPILLER: Don't choose plants that are all the same height, shape, or texture. Thrillers are tall and upright, fillers are medium-high and mounding, and spillers are low and spreading to soften the container’s edge. Besides giving contrast, this arrangement avoids competition for light and space.
· COLOR: Combining colors harmoniously is a subjective enterprise, and in practice most gardeners limit the palette to what’s available locally.
· COLOR PRINCIPLES: Pinks, blues, and purples are nearly always compatible. Hot yellows and oranges work well with reds that verge on purple or brown. White, silver, pale yellow, and chartreuse go with everything.
· CHANGING THE PLANTS: It’s easy to add and subtract plants, even in midseason. Using a long knife, cut a circle around the root mass of the plant to be removed, pull out the cylinder of roots and potting mix and toss on the compost pile, and plug in the new plant. In a week or so, the replacement will look as if it had been in the container from the start.
PLANTING THE CONTAINER:
· PLANTING MIX: Start with a commercial, peat-based, soil-less mix, which holds a lot more water than garden soil, and add in a slow-release fertilizer. When filling the pot with the mix, leave an inch between the soil surface and the rim of the pot for water.
· PLANT PLACEMENT: If the container is going to stand against a wall or fence, put tall plants in the back where they won’t block light and air from shorter neighbors. If the container will be out in the open, place the tallest plants in the center.
· TOP DRESSING: Bare soil in pots is not desired, top dress around plant stems with gravel, crushed shells, attractive pebbles, or another quick-draining layer. This looks more "finished" and also helps retain moisture.
CONTAINER DESIGN & DISPLAY:
· Small pots dotted about the wider garden tend to look lost, so, keep these close to the house in places where there is a chance to stop and admire them.
· Use small pots, less than 12 inches in diameter, to create changing displays of small plants such as bulbs, herbs, sempervivum, and alpines. Single pots allow mixing and matching the display easily, according to what's in bloom.
· Different levels are the key to good group displays. Buy an inexpensive florist's stand to lift pots closer to eye level and create a composition of varying colors, textures and shapes.
· Turn empty pots on end and use them as stands or hide bricks or wooden blocks behind other pots.
· The repetition trick is popular with gardeners. Put an identical plant in identical pots such as an agave in a terra-cotta pot and use them evenly spaced to emphasize a linear feature, such as a low wall, steps, or the edge of a pool.
· Large containers work well anywhere. They are design features that can reinforce the permanent structure of the garden.
· Use a pair of clipped boxwood or bay to flank a doorway or entrance. Delineate a seating area with a living wall of laurel in troughs. Place pots of lavender on wide steps where the scent is caught as one walks past.
· Use containers as a low-key way of directing visitors around the garden. For example, to edge a worn patch of lawn where foot traffic is not desired, direct the eye to seating or pathways.
· Use terra-cotta saucers under pots where possible to prevent staining surfaces. Large saucers can be a feature in themselves. Place a layer of attractive pebbles in the saucer and stand the plant on these. This way collected water won't rot roots and will raise humidity levels around the plant.
CHOOSING THE BEST LOCATION: The location of the container garden is the determining factor for the type of containers and plants used.
Check the sunlight exposure of the area being used for the container garden. If it gets over 4 hours of direct sunlight per day, use plants that can handle full sun. Shady areas are great for shade plants, and even some part sun plants.
PLANTS FOR THE CONTAINER GARDEN: ANNUALS: There is no better way to decorate the outdoor areas used the most in the warmer months than with colorful and beautiful annuals. A few containers full of blooms is all it takes to transform the look and feel of any outdoor living space, setting the mood for entertaining, relaxing, and enjoying the outdoors.
Whether it's a patio, porch, balcony, poolside, or fire-pit seating area, single plants and collections make your outdoor spaces feel like home.
Plants for the container garden include:
Winged Begonia (Begonia semperflorens cultorum)
Coleus (Coleus scutellariodes)
Geranium (Pelargonium hortorum)
New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri)
Sweet Potato Vine (Ipomoea batatas)
PLANTS FOR THE CONTAINER GARDEN: PERENNIALS: Gardeners and budget conscience homeowners everywhere are learning the benefits of container gardening with perennials. With so many varieties of perennials to choose from for sun and shade, it's now possible to create combinations that are just as appealing and colorful as those made with annuals alone, and the best part is that you don't have to replant them every year.
Advantages for using perennials in the container garden include:
· Perennials provide a head start of at least a month over planting only annuals because perennials can handle colder weather. This means that beautiful containers are possible in April!
· Perennials allow the gardener to grow things that wouldn't normally grow in their soil or climate.
· Using decorative pots to contain perennials that may be invasive in the garden but are still worth growing.
· Containers can be rearranged to give the appearance of continuous bloom throughout the season. Place them in a prominent place, such as on a front porch, when they are in full bloom, then rotate them out when they are finished. If there is a spot in the garden that is all-green during parts of the season, add a pot of flowering perennials there to liven up the space and add visual interest. Design container plantings to coordinate with the seasons, so that something is in bloom for spring, summer, and fall.
Perennials for the container garden include:
Aster (Symphyotrichum novae)
Bellflower (Campanula americana)
Clematis (Clematis Rebecca)
Echinacea: (Echinacea purpurea)
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
GRASSES FOR THE CONTAINER GARDEN: Growing ornamental grasses in containers is a great way to feature them without the worry of spreading or taking over the garden. Container-grown grasses are also much easier to divide.
When grasses are grown in containers, they are less hardy, usually by two hardiness zones. The actual hardiness of a container-grown ornamental grass depends upon its exposure, the material of the container, weather fluctuations during the winter months, and how well it is winterized. A sheltered spot, like a greenhouse, garage, or basement, is an ideal place to put the containers inside to overwinter.
Grasses for the container garden include:
Bamboo Muhly (Muhlenbergia dumosa)
Blue Lyme Grass (Leymus arenarius)
Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum)
Japanese Sweet Flag (Acorus gramineus)
New Zealand Flax (Phormium tenax)
HERBS FOR THE CONTAINER GARDEN: There are many benefits to growing herbs in containers. Growing herbs in pots is an easy way to control soil moisture, keep aggressive spreaders, like mint and lemon balm, under control and away from garden beds, and gives easy access to fresh herbs for culinary use.
Tips for growing herbs in containers include:
· Pick containers with adequate drainage
· Fill pots with a combination of good quality potting soil and aged compost.
· Worm castings boost soil nutrients and moisture retention.
· Harvest regularly. Frequent harvesting encourages fresh growth.
· Water consistently.
Research the herbs planted and learn which prefer very well-drained soil, such as thyme, oregano, and rosemary, and which prefer more moisture, like mint, coriander, and lemon balm.
Herbs for the container garden include:
Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum)
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
Oregano (Origanum vulgare)
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
Rosemary (Salvia Rosmarinus)
Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus)
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
SUCCULENTS FOR THE CONTAINER GARDEN: Potted succulents are perfect summer plants for the porch, patio, or deck thanks to their small size, water-saving habits, and sun-loving nature.
Tips to start a successful succulent container garden:
• Select a container with drainage holes.
• Spread gravel in the bottom of the container to speed drainage.
• Use a potting soil mix designed for succulents or cacti.
• Plant succulents tightly in the container.
• Let the pots dry out slightly between watering.
• Bring containers indoors to a bright windowsill in winter.
Succulents for the container garden include:
Hens & Chicks: Glowing Embers: (Sempervivum tectorum)
Zebra Haworthia: (Haworthia fasciata)
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa)
Russian stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum)
String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus):
VEGETABLES FOR THE CONTAINER GARDEN: There is no such thing as foolproof vegetable gardening, but container vegetable gardening comes close by reducing problems posed by weather and critters. Another great benefit of container gardening is that you do not need a vast space or in-ground garden.
Some of the easiest vegetables to grow in containers are nightshades like tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and eggplant, as well as fast-growing crops like peas and lettuce. All that is needed is a patio, porch, or balcony with good sun exposure. A larger volume of soil will hold moisture and nutrients longer. Consider starting with a larger container to reduce the margin of error.
For the indoor container garden, watercress, water chestnut, wasabi, and lotus are some of the food plants that naturally grow in water. Many terrestrial vegetables can adapt, and some leafy greens such as lettuce and spinach do extremely well. They seem to be happier than their counterparts growing in the ground because they get a continuous supply of water and are not bothered by soil pathogens.
Vegetables for the container garden include:
Arugula (Eruca vesicaria)
Celery (Apium graveolens)
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus)
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
Peas (Pisum sativum)
Peppers (Capsicum annuum)
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum)
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